Friday, October 31, 2008

Taking Care of Oily Skin: What Works

Because an oily complexion often feels moist to the touch, many people avoid using moisturizers, because they think they will only make matters worse.

Experts disagree. Crutchfield tells WebMD that oil and moisture are not the same things, and the older you are, the more you need to use a moisturizer even when skin is oily.

"The oiliness of your skin will seal in the moisture you have - but won't replace the moisture that you lose, particularly as you age, " says Crutchfield.

For even better results, try incorporating alpha hydroxy acid (AHAs) creams into your daily skin care regimen.

"There is some evidence that AHA creams increase production of collagen and hyaluronic acid which in turn helps in relation to moisture – plus they treat superficial lines and wrinkles so you also get a rejuvenating effect," says Crutchfield.

Resnik recommends using a glycolic acid or salicylic acid product coupled with a light oil-free moisturizer containing a sunscreen for best results.

"This will do a good job of gently exfoliating your skin, reducing sebum buildup and giving you a more youthful appearance," he says.

Taking Care of Oily Skin: When Nothing Else Works

If, despite your best efforts to control oil production, your skin is still gushing 24/7, there are specific treatments that can help.

Among the easiest are over-the-counter drying solutions. While they won't impact oil production, they can 'mop up' some of what is being produced so oily skin looks better.

"You can choose any topical treatment that has alcohol in it – I like solutions more than lotions, which dry the surface area of the skin," says Crutchfield.

Schlessinger says that astringents and toners can also help – although the results are temporary, so application may have to be repeated more than once a day.

Resnik suggests using oil-inhibiting products. "I recommend OC 8, which uses an absorbent technology to reduce shine and it's very effective for all skin types," he says.

Cosmetic products known as "anti shine" primers can also help by forming a layer between skin and make-up that works to absorb excess oil as it's being secreted.

If temporary measures like these don't work to control your oily skin, there are also several professional treatments that can help. These include prescription topical and oral drugs like Retin A, Differin, Tazorac or Accutane.

"Accutane works the longest and has both immediate and long-term results – the others can temporarily improve the situation, but aren't long-term solutions, " says Schlessinger. While some doctors use this medication to treat oily skin, its use for this purpose is off-label and not generally recommended.

Resnik prefers using ultra low doses of isotretinion."Although it's off-label, it's extremely effective at reducing or eliminating excess oil," he says. The dosage is limited to about 10 mg once or twice a week.

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