Does Your Underwear Need an Overhaul?

Behind closed lingerie drawers, even the chicest among us sometime have messy little secrets. Nothing matches. Your bra is yellow, your panties are pink and you hope you won't get hit by a taxi anytime soon. Nothing works. Yep, that's a black bra under your white shirt. And your pencil skirt needs panty-line rehab...

There's a reason they're called foundation garments: Clothes look better because you're lifted or sleeked in the right places, and your spirit is nourished by cute, stylish, seductive stuff. "People say, 'I've been married 20 years; I don't need that' or 'I'm not dating anybody now; I don't need that,'" says Sandra Saffle, national lingerie stylist for Nordstrom. "But when they put on beautiful lingerie, their faces light up and their whole posture changes."

So here it is—an intimate wardrobe able to negotiate all of life's occasions: basics that work overtime, solutions for strapless/backless dresses and gowns, practical gym gear, glamorous little bits.

Everyday:

This is your core lingerie—it doesn't shift around, it doesn't show, and it's comfy enough to handle eight hours plus at your desk. It should include plenty of black, white, and nude bras and panties—not too skimpy and preferably seamless. But Susan Nethero, chief fit stylist for Intimacy boutiques, urges a revolt against purely functional styles, suggesting richer colors, witty prints, even lace and embroidery.

Start fresh with easy-care, hard-wearing whites: an immaculate underwire bra (Hanro, $52) and teeny bikini (Gap, $13). Shirt, Jones New York Signature, $59.

Workout:

Like free weights or yoga mats, gym-friendly underwear is essential equipment. But don't shop for sports bras where you get running shoes, Nethero says: Those sold at athletic stores often compress breast tissue (unhealthy). Buy bras with cups—and, if necessary, underwire—plus thin seamless panties. Moisture-wicking fabrics no longer have that nylon-y feel, and boy, do they keep you cool and dry.

Get going with a well-engineered bra (Natori, $50) with two-ply cups and tiny shorts (Adidas by Stella McCartney, $70) with built-in mesh panties.

Evening:

When considering underthings for nighttime, the challenge is making sure that your choices stay invisible. "You don't want to plan an evening in a killer dress only to discover at the last minute that you have nothing to wear under it," says Nordstrom's Sandra Saffle. Be prepared with a convertible bra that adapts to all necklines, including strapless, plus a few lightweight shapewear pieces to address any excess.

This smoky mauve lace bra (Huit, $79) dips low, so it won't show under the scoop-neck dress (Luisa Beccaria) she's about to zip up.

Sexy:

Racy lingerie, frankly, can make some of us a little nervous—but maybe that's the point. "It's fun to explore something that pushes your boundaries," says Jennifer Duenas, former associate store manager for Kiki de Montparnasse, known for its risqué wares. Most of these flimsies are for (very) private consumption; with today's trend toward taking lingerie public, though, you never know.

This lavish set is sized for the amply endowed (Fayreform bra, 32D to 40DD, $100, and French knickers, $44). Cardigan, Pollini, $1,145.